Trani - 03/06

Mainland Europe - Day 39
Dubrobnik --> Trani

After nine hours on the boat from Dubrovnik we arrived in Bari, on the heel of the boot of Italy. Yvonne had done her homework, as usual, and we had the phone numbers of a couple of B&B's about an hour north. It was 9pm so we quickly jumped on the highway, eager to find a place to stay.

Italy is famous for dodgy drivers and my introduction to the motorways showed me why. Tail-gating, generally speeding, overtaking on blind corners, going from 150kms to 40kms in 2 seconds whilst overtaking and exiting a freeway ramp ... wow!!

Whilst in transit to Trani we made contact with 'Marco' and got ourselves a nice cheap room in a B&B. The directions we had were pretty crap, so Marco was very nice and met us at a central place in town. This turned out to be a very good thing, because we would never have realised that the B&B was actually inside an apartment block ... weird, but nice.

Our stay in Trani was quite brief and although Yvonne kept telling me that this was where all the transvestites came from, what I'll actually remember Trani for was the three litres of wine we bought at a little fruit shop for only 2 Euro. So cheap ... and it was actually ok too.

Dubrovnik - 02/06

Mainland Europe - Day 38
Gradac --> Dubrovnik

We arrived in Dubrovnik late in the afternoon, just enough time to unpack the car, have a quick beer and head off to the airport to pick up Ger. Our three days in Dubrovnik had been half planned for several weeks. By coincidence some of Yvonne's friends were going to be town for a wedding, and we'd also so we convinced Ger to come along, so it was bound to be a fun weekend. As a bonus Ger arranged all the accommodation (photo 1 is from our balcony), so all we had to do was turn up. Perfect.

All I'd really heard about Dubrovnik was that is was a walled city. Which sounded amazing to me, until I drove half way across Europe and realised that every second city is a walled city. Even so Dubrovnik was something special. For starters it was 'really' walled, I mean massive walls. We actually spent over an hour walking along the tops of the walls, pretty cool.

Also, Dubrovnik had a nice beach. Well as far as Croatia goes, it was a nice beach. It was still very rocky, but the water was beautiful and sun was shining. Most evenings we started by drinking a lot of very cheap beer at home, before heading out for some dinner and quite a lot of not so cheap beer. Out first two nights were late ones, we met up with the wedding group and didn't make it home until after 3am both nights.

On the third day the weather turned bad and we took the chance for some recuperation. Ger flew out later that day and Yvonne and I had a quiet night in, getting ourselves ready for the following days ferry trip to Italy. Our time in Croatia had come to an end. When planning our trip, of all the European countries Croatia had certainly provoked the least of my curiosity. However, I can honestly say that our time on it's rocky coast line has provided some of our absolute highlights.

Gradac - 28/05

Mainland Europe - Day 33
Sibenik --> Gradac

Further down the stunning Croatian Coast we stumbled upon one of those town you know you could only find when driving through a country. On the main road we saw a sign for a Hostel, which intrigued us as we had not come across one hostel in Croatia so far.

We followed the signs and found a brand new hostel. It comprised of several old stone buildings had been renovated beautifully. The rooms we were given had never been used, the beds had never been slept in. The shower was super hi-tech with seven water spouts, a light and a radio. In fact, the shower was so hi-tech that we couldn't work out how to use it and had to get some directions from the owner.

We settled in, making some noodles for dinner, using our gas stove on the window ledge. Then we headed out to explore.

We discovered a picture perfect stone fishing village wedged between soaring mountains and crystal clear waters. We swam in the beautiful sea, and then had a couple of beers sitting on the pier jutting out from the waterside restaurants.

Not a tourist in site, it was one of those places you could stay forever, but onward we must go. Dubrovnik here we come, to hook up with some Irish friends who are going to be there for the weekend.

Sibenik - 27/05

Mainland Europe - Day 32
Rovinj --> Sibenik

I think you could call Yvonne and myself 'concept campers'. We both really like the idea of camping, the natural outdoor setting, getting back to basics, the 'concept'. However, when it really comes down to it, we both seem to always find some reason not to actually do it.

Leaving Ireland we were equipped with a 30 euro two-man tent from Lidl (something like Aldi for the Aussies). When we came across a beautiful camp site at Sibenik, on the Croatian coast, there really was no excuse not to finally put our tent to use. After all, the sun was shinning and it was lovely and warm. On top of this we had just spent a whole week in Rovinj, just a few hours north where the weather was amazing every day, perfect for camping.

We found a great site, no more then 10 metres from the water. With a hammer borrowed from some helpful Germans, our little tent was up quite quickly. It was a hot afternoon so I took a dip the Adriatic, then we both sat on the beach and enjoyed the view. Our first camping experience in Europe was going perfectly.

It was just around sunset when the winds started. From almost nothing to a gale within minutes. All around the camp ground people were tightening guide ropes and hammering pegs in a bit deeper. So as not to feel left out, we did likewise. With only a small torch for light, Yvonne and I retired to our tent as the sky darkened. The batteries on the netbook were fully charged and we settled in for a movie. The wind continued to shake our little tent until around 11pm we both slipped out to brush our teeth.

In the distance a fierce electrical storm was raging. We sat for about 20 minutes and watched dozens of lightning strikes light up the sky over the ocean. It was amazing. Well it was amazing from a distance, but when the storm hit our camp site it was mildly terrifying. It was so loud that we could hardly hear each other speak. And So windy that our tent was practically folded in half.

After a while I guess I got used to it and drifted off to sleep, but Yvonne didn't sleep a wink until 3am when it all subsided. In the morning we walked around the camp site and surveyed the damage. At 7:30am half the campervans had already left, maybe they'd left during the night. A lot of the people in tents were gone too, some must have been early risers, but others simply left the remains of their tents and hit the road.

We'd survived virtually unscathed. Our little 30 euro Lidl tent had held together and kept us bone dry. A few of the pegs were loose and we found one rip, but otherwise we were fine. I was even able to scavenge some extra pegs from some of the abandoned remains of our less fortunate neighbours. This all said, I think it might be some time before we get the urge to camp again.

Rivinj - 26/05

Mainland Europe - Day 31
Hallstatt --> Trieste --> Pula --> Rovinj

Our first 12 hours in Croatia did not go well.
I had arranged to meet my folks for a week and I had assured them I would have some nice accommodation for us all.

In my usual fashion of 'do everything last minute' I had nothing sorted and we had to collect them at 10.30 AM the next morning. In order to do this we had to have somewhere to stay so we could unload the car.

We drove from Austria through Italy and Slovenia arriving on the Croatian Istrian Peninsula at 3pm. A 200km coastline, described as 'The New Tuscany' in my guidebook. Through my limited research this seemed like an ideal location for our weeks holiday.

In the car we discussed the boxes that needed to be ticked in order to find this ideal place
1) Cute fishing village with nice restaurants
2) Two nice apartments close to village
3) Swimming pool
4) WiFi

'No Worries' we thought, we'll drive the coast and find our perfect place.

We set off down the peninsula but all we came across were scabby little towns with not much happening and deserted resorts from times gone by which felt like something out of 'The Shining'. By about 8pm panic started to set in. My folks were arriving in 14 hours and I had nothing sorted. Finally redemption arrived. We found 'Rovinj' an ancient fishing town which most definitely ticked box number one.

Now to find accommodation. The hotels were expensive and clinical and a bit out of town, so we hit the pavement and started roaming the village. Darkness was falling and our options seemed to be waining. Finally our lucky break arrived when chatting to a hotel receptionist in town. She said her friend had two apartments very close by. Off we set to find them. Maria, an 80 year old Croatian lady greeted us. Communication was difficult as she didn't have any English. But with my limited Spanish and her Italian we managed to lock it in......

Relief and Joy swept over us. By now it was 10pm and we needed to get some sleep to prepare us for the 6 hour round trip to pick up my folks from the north of Venice.

Once we got back from the airport it was time to relax with Mum and Dad and to enjoy settling into one place for a week.

We quickly fell into a routine. One of us would go to the bakery for fresh bread each morning. Then we would have brekkie on Mum and Dad's terrace. Afternoons were filled with exploring the village, boat trips, lazing on the beach and of course afternoon naps.

Each evening we would re-convene for dinner at a waterside restaurant which became our local for the week. We had great fun and chats and we all enjoyed consuming plenty of the gorgeous Istrian wine. The food was fantastic too, beautiful local seafood and great pizza.

The week was over before we knew it, we actually stayed a day longer then we had planned. Mum and Dad also stayed on, lingering for another five days before heading back to Venice. Rovinj felt like a well kept secret. Not yet on the tourist trail and not east to find (we can surely vouch for that)

Hallstatt - 18/05

Mainland Europe - Day 23
Vienna --> Salzkammergut --> Hallstatt

The hills are alive with the sound of ...... our poor car, fully loaded, climbing to 3,000+ metres. And the journey was more then worth it. Photos can never do these places justice but we gave it a go.

It was sunny and warm but there were still strips of unmelted ice slicing through alpine peeks. The sky was a deep cloudless blue. The lakes and rivers were aqua-green from glacial melt.

All in all it was an absolutely idyllic setting, and we managed to score a fantastic place to stay, on the banks of a lake in the town of Hallstatt.

The whole area is a ski destination in winter so the following day we took a trip up on a gondola up the mountain, the view was something else. More inadequate photos were taken before it was time to hit the road again.

For sheer beauty, Austria has definitely been one of the highlights so far.

Vienna - 17/05

Mainland Europe - Day 22
Nova Lhota --> Vienna

Arriving in Vienna felt like the first day of summer.

It was Sunday afternoon and it seemed like all the locals were out for dinner, an ice cream or just to enjoy the warm summers day.

Neither of us knew what to expect so when we can came upon such a stunning city we were pleasantly surprised. The vast open squares and the huge ornate buildings have been preserved to give off an effect of grand splendor.

It is a city full of museums, gallery's and opera houses, but we were happy to stroll the streets and soak in the atmosphere to pass the time away.

Men in 18th century garb were doing their best to off load last minute tickets to various operas. Unfortunately time didn't permit, but something we'll certainly do on our next visit.

Nova Lhota - 16/05

Mainland Europe - Day 21
Prague --> Nova Lhota

Nova Lhota is a small town of about 500 people in the south east of the Czech Republic. It's very close to the Slovakian border and doesn't appear on either of the two maps we had of the Czech Republic. Luckily Google Maps is a little more detailed. Nova Lhota is also where my Grandfather was born and where quite a few of my relatives still live.

Whilst in Prague we enlisted the help of the hotel front desk to call my relos, so they'd know we'd be popping in. As the only Czech I know is "Ahoy, jak se mas", which is "Hello, how are you", I left most of the talking to our makeshift translator. By the end of the conversation we had the address Jirina, my mum's cousin's daughter, where we were likely to find someone who spoke English.

Jirina's home is in Velka nad Velickou, about 15 minutes from Nova Lhota. A bigger town of some 3000 people, but as it turns out still not big enough to have street names. The address we had was simply "590 Velka nad Velickou", a house number and a town. On our arrival we quickly realised that our task of finding 590 was going to be a lot more difficult then we first thought. Driving down the main street we saw "consecutive" house numbers like 43, 612, 256 and 491, ie no sensible order at all. After about 40 minutes and six unsuccessful English-to-Czech conversations we luckily stumbled a friend of Jirinas. A phone call was made and within 10 minutes Jirina arrived followed soon after by a friend/translator.

We had a drink and some dinner with Jirina before heading to Nova Lhota where we stayed for the next three nights with my mother's cousins Yan & Anieka. Being spoilt simply doesn't cover it, Yvonne and I were practically treated like royalty. Delicious food, lots of beer, home-made shivovice, family dinners at the kitchen table, it was perfect. Old photo albums emerged, as did the necessary English-to-Czech dictionaries.

Friday night was spent drinking way too much at a local pub with Jirina, Jarka and Natalie. Czech beer tastes great, but unfortunately doesn't make you immune to hangovers. On the Saturday we had a big family get together with my mum's three cousins Jan, Maria and Josef, their partners, and children, and grandchildren. Jan (Junior), Irena, and Karolina made things a lot easier acting as translators.

As always, time flies when you're having fun, and after another beautiful lunch on Sunday it was time to leave. Everyone came out again to see us off. It was a bit sad to come and go so quickly, three days really wasn't enough, but it has made me determined to visit again soon, hopefully with my mum too. Everyone made us feel so welcome, but I want to say a special thank you to Jan, Anieka and Jirina for taking such amazing care of us.